A CP19 clip point hunter made with 1/8" 154CM steel and stabilized spalted maple scales. A DH59 modified drop point hunter/skinner made with 1/8" 154CM steel and stabilized maple burl. An FK1 fillet knife made with 3/32" CPM154CM and black & blue G10. Thanks for looking! Dan
Really nice Dan. Love that maple. Can I ask, where did you get this from? You guys all seem to find the most beautifully figured wood. I need to up my game in the wood handle dept. (among other things)
Thanks guys. Todd. The wood I got from Don Stevenson at WoodStabilzer.com in B.C. I had to rip a sweet spalted block to make scales but the symmetry turned out ok. The best part with stabilized or really oily wood is there is no need to apply any coatings, just buff and go. Saves time and looks great. Dan
Yeah, I've been doing the buff and go technique as sort of my default. In my case was working through box of walnut scraps that I had. I've been using these since my first knife. I use the green compound, I think, on the wheel to give it a sort of waxy shine on the wood. I really should expand my knowledge and skills I suppose. Big plans this winter, maybe I'll work with some zany new material like G10 or even stabilized wood : ) Thanks for the info too. I'll check out WoodStabilizer for sure.
I have got some stuff from WoodStabilizer and it was great product. Really weird to cut, ended up using a fine tooth hacksaw, but it was great to work with and even if you don't go super shiny it looks good with a fine grit sandpaper finish. Oh and Dan, very nice knives. I love your work.
Thanks Cal. Thanks Shawn. I cut the stabilized stuff on my Porta-Band with a 14 tpi blade. It can get kind of gummy, almost like cutting PVC or something. When drilling, it makes curly Qs and you come to realize that the resin has gone right into the centre of the block. It will take a shine like polished plastic, but I like that matte finish around 600 grit and some spit.
