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Tapered Tang

Discussion in 'Fit & Finish' started by dancom, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    Hi gang,

    Any insights on doing a tapered tang? I am working with a 5/32" piece of CPM154. I am using 2 ea. 3/16" mosaic pins and one 1/4" brass tube for lanyard hole. The scale material is stabilized spalted maple, over 1/2" thick. The taper is more for aesthetics than balance.

    I was wondering about pinning the scales and if I have to set the table on the drill press to the correct angle. What is a typical gradient? Would going from 5/32" to 3/32" over 4" seem about right? Or perhaps 3/32" is not enough meat on the end. Is an angular offset in scale pin holes even required?

    Don't really want to waste my thing of beauty. Someone else has done this before, I know it!

    Oh and I know this is a Canadian forum eh? Sorry for the lack of metricness.

    ;-)

    Dan
     
  2. Grayzer86

    Grayzer86 Active Member

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    With a tapers tang, you will typically want to grind a hollow in the tang first stopping shy of the butt. This allows the flat grind to go much faster due to less surface area on the belt when tapering. You will want a couple welding magnets to hold on to the blank when doing this.

    As for drilling, be sure to drill the tang before tapering. After tapering you will have to compensate for the angle when drilling scales. Even a few degrees will make scale and pin fit awkward. The good news is there is an easy way to do this. If you start at 5/32 and grind to 3/32 you have effectively taken 1/32 off each side. Simply block the butt up 1/32 while drilling the first scale. Then do the same on the other scale and all should be even.

    3/32 would be lots thick at the pommel area and many guys go even thinner.
     
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