Discussion in 'Fixed Blades' started by Fred/A, Dec 28, 2013.
1095 blade, water quenched. Wenge handle and SS guard.
225mm overall, 134mm blade.
Love this one, I'm a big fan of the greyish tone some of you guys get on your blades,. Mind if I ask what the process is or that? is it soaking/etching the blade in something?
I really like the traditional style of your blades and your hamons are very nice. They are so nice and uniform it almost gives the look of San Mai
Love your work. The muted grey and charcoal tones of your overall design theme, with your awesome makers mark, really makes the blade seem timeless. Everything about it blends nicely.
Thanks a lot guys !
Its simply etching process and polishing without removing too much oxides
I like this, needs a saya to finish it off.
Awesome blade Fred! I've got one question though, it says it's water quenched? I thought you couldn't quench blades in water because it either cracks them or doesn't cool fast enough. If you don't mind explaining I'm really interested in how you did it.
1095 steel is a shallow hardening steel, needs to be quench really fast. Water (soapy or brine) is the fastest quench you can get for 1095 steel. Its not recommanded because of the risk of cracking/wraping the blade but with good care it can be done. You can also do water/oil quench by quenching first in water, holding for 3 seconds, quenching in oil holding it for 3 seconds and finish it in water. It reduce the risk of cracking and wraping. I've done 1095 blades like this with good results.
Wow thanks so much for sharing. I'll have to try that if I ever get some 1095 and get back into the shop.
Just to add abut waater quenching. W-2 steel, which is most Nicholson file steel, is quenched in watery brine. I've read that that is what the W stands for.
That's true, almost same quenching process than 1095... with good care W2 can be water quench too, really good hamon potential with interrupted quench.
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