Discussion in '2017 KITH' started by John Noon, Apr 8, 2017.
oh, and i forgot to mention, crazy cool looking knife.
The bolsters and pommel are 304 stainless with 316 pins, 308 filler rod is hiding on me right now. Ideally the pins will disappear if similar composition but in this case they will show at the right viewing angle unfortunately.
If the right size hole is drilled using a numbered bit one size larger and everything is glued and peened then the pins should be almost invisible. I also rough up the pins with 80 grit before gluing for the best bond possible, should never loosen in this life time.
Polishing to a mirror finish seems to help hide the pins but you can also do a 400 grit finish and if the material composition is real close then they are not as noticeable.
Well that one really feels a little large and bigger than the maximum so I am making two more that will be identical construction and handle material with any luck. Will be testing both in the kitchen to see which is better large or small and that will be the one going into the KITH draw.
Glory shot of the little ones in the furnace, removed before heating up and will be back in once the 600C temperature has been reached. That is the minimum temperature that a Condursal treated knife can be introduced to heat.
Making two simply because I do not have a good knife in my kitchen in that particular size plus one of these small ones may end up paired with the larger one in a single sheath.
Very good question. I pin only, but some use epoxy as a sealer. I find epoxy actually gets in the way. It's hard to compress a liquid right? If the metal meets steel and it's very close, there is no need for sealing as 40,000 pounds will fix that.
Making the pins disappear is an art unto itself. Some tricks are:
Using the same material. Pins and bolster pieces are 416 SS. Seems obvious. Once I tried 416 pins on a 304 bolster and there was no way to hide them.
Clean pins with fine sandpaper and solvent. If you don't the oxidized outside of the pin will appear as a black ring.
Clean holes with solvent and an artist's paint brush. No oil or cutting fluid in the hole which could result in a black ring.
Press pins and bolster with a hydraulic press. They literally weld in place from the pressure.
Use stacks of washers to get the press to contact the bolster pieces first and then pins. This will give the big squeeze on the bolster to seal it to the steel before the pins start to compress.
Cal had a good photo session on his technique, which I attempt to faithfully follow. That is the process I use nowadays. You can see described in the middle of this post http://www.canadianknifemaker.ca/index.php?threads/full-tang-chefs-knife-build.1648/
Well that was where I read up on bolsters and stuff. Really need to save links or something
Cal's write up is here: http://www.canadianknifemaker.ca/index.php?threads/desert-ironwood-hunter.996/
Post heat treating pose, no clean up needed after hitting with compressed air during plate quench.
Blanks spent 20 minutes in the freezer time for hardness testing and tempering cycle.
Condursal working as it supposed to?
yes it did but if you don't scrub clean enough that is how they come out. If properly cleaned or cleaned a little better then they get the rainbow look, as it is the grey cam off real fast and easily.
Had this happen once before and knife was hardened nicely and the surface cleans up much easier than something that has significant decarb.
Every have one of those days lol, polishing went twice as fast then buffed. We'll need to replace bulb in my work light since I had beautifully polished scratches.
Turns out I was skipping the sand at ninety between grits
Talk about just under the wire, but still lots of detail sanding left and several coats of Tru-Oil.
Realized after getting first knife done I was too large, got carried away free handing the tip shape. So made a second knife with matching handle material and the bolsters need lots of fine sanding to get flattened after a grinder slip up.
So on to the third knife which will have a Ebony handle with red fiberglass liners. Tapered from top to bottom for a nice fit in the hand.
Great looking set of knives John!
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