My Entry was going to be a modified chef knife, paring knife, fillet knife thing and shortened the whole process with a picture I saw online and Dan's template. Still might get some changes but that usually happens as I am grinding and just let things happen to get the right feel for the handle. The odds of a thumb rise getting added on a very good at this point as well as pinless scales. Plan is to use CPM 154 stainless steel for the knife blade, 1/8" 304 stainless steel for the bolster and pommels and a hybrid wood Alumilite material for the handle. Still no decision on which of a multitude of materials I have on hand will be used or the color, this usually comes along near the end. Sheath design is up in the air at this point between Kydex and Leather with a concept of a sheath that can be strapped onto another sheath (no idea how yet)
Well that didn't take long to change even came up with a interesting idea for the bolster I have never seen done before so this should prove interesting. Might even make a smaller version some time in the far off future Actual bolster design is not drawn on yet because I am not even sure it will work so it will be shown after I either make it work or it becomes scrap.
A little progress shot, pre heat treating Dual Optical Gauge inspection (DOG) for short Looks like two paws up
Posing in the furnace, will be removed until first preheat step is reached for this material. That is 1400F and five minutes Thinking I should have done the bevels first to save some time but kind of past that stage.
Did a roundup of knives in the work shop and starting to get ahead of myself again. Fun one tomorrow is going to be a left hand fillet knife with left hand sheath, really hoping it does not come out right handed.
John, For the stabilize step, I get the oven to around 800°C (1472°F). Place the steel in. Close the door. Undoubtedly, the temp drops, but recovers fairly quickly. I kick off the elements for another two or three minutes as it stabilizes, then switch them back on for ramp up to 1060°C. It's an ideal place for a step. Condursal is best used above that rest temp. Dan
I have been a little slow on the build but finally today main bevel is done and getting hand sanded. Still up in the air about keeping the texture I put on before heat treating for the back of the blade or sanding down for the nice shiny look. Of course in the kitchen clean and smooth is probably better in the long run. Might be a little big but it was a on the fly grind from DanC's template and a picture of another knife I saw online sort of mashed together, off to read the rules and see if I have to change up blades Originally my inspiration was to go with something similar to what Joe Mcneely posted on facebook some time back then when I saw Dans template I went the easier route and printed that off for the foundation. If anyone ever asks "What is the Angle on a SEAX blade" the answer is 69 degrees
Uh John... shouldn't you be using steel to make the knife? I mean, how will you heat treat this one? (sorry, i'm in a goofy mood today)
Getting way behind in stuff but I have made some progress after redesigning the handle four times and checking the length to find out it is oversized Going with a Pinless handle design and a maple burl that is stabilized and dyed blue Bolster and pommel are in place and ready for polishing and final shaping. First step of fitting the wood slabs is creating a template from masking tape and second step is put the tape on the wood blocks then cut close to the correct shape. Ideally the wood will be a snug fit so essentially the scales will stay in place without glue. In a perfect world the bolster and pommel curves will hold the wood but as you can see here I messed up a little on the Pommel.
Some more progress. Wood glued on and preliminary shaping done. Have a few scratches to fix on the pommel and bolster where I hit them with the sanding belt. a quick buff in these pictures at 800 grit to see what the handle will look like. still have to go over everything with the 1200 and 2000 grit before waxing and giving the whole blade a final buffing.
I need to go back and make a whole new KITH entry. Wow. That awesome. Maybe I will keep my crappy beginner knife and just send cash.
Thanks. I have a year making knives so it will be different than just starting out. Finally have the basic edge and first polish done time for clean up and another couple pictures, then more cleaning and polishing LOL it never fails. Got a little on the large size and I think it may get a sheath or Kydex sleeve like I made for a fillet knife I have
couple test shots before sheath construction which is usually not as fun as it sounds. Figuring out a style to match the blade takes me way to long. Ended up 11" overall and I have a sneaky feeling it was supposed to be much smaller. Back to the rules Might just have to put serious thought into a couple more and work out a price. The few who have held it fell in love with the look and feel.
dumb question but, are the bolsters and guards glued and pinned? Is it the polishing that makes the pins disappear?