I have brought in Hirschkleber which is very popular in the Bespoke shoe & boot making crowd as it is a natural product with no fumes too speak of. key points: you have time to adjust the glue joint. leather can still breath which is good in a layered sheath. Can be disassembled with a prolonged soak in water. Glue joint sands easily and is easy to burnish. Can be used to harden leather to a small degree, combine with hammer burnishing for greater stiffness apply to back of leather and burnish for a smooth finish. Probably other things that it does but I have not tried out just yet. picture is of a test sample that I tried to fold after gluing and burnishing. burnishing was done with WYO Quik Slick from Barry King Tools. The broken glue joint was from folding and it turns out that I should have misted the leather before bonding. Should have read the instructions before use Hirschkleber WYO Quik Slik
That is a good question and I am going to try to dye it shortly. I know the WYO Quik Slik takes dye easily
First is the WYO Quick slick, Red Dye and Brown EdgeKote The Hirschkleber Glue, after bending 90 degrees (cracking in surface) then given another coat and burnished did take the Red Dye. Sample looks like it went through hell and back so not something I really want on the web page but I can send you the picture
Working on a leather heel yesterday and found out something real nice. Any glue that squishes out and dries is good and hard which makes sanding very easy.