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First Folder /salvage Wip

Discussion in 'How I Made It: Tutorials' started by Icho-, Mar 21, 2016.

  1. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    I've been wanting to make a folder for a very long time and all of this folder talk around here has really been greasing the gears in my head...maybe got the voices a bit more active. lol Anyways, I've had a broken full tang blade laying around for quite a while now. I broke it when I was trying to straighten it. When it broke, my second thought was possible folder blade. I won't repeat my first thought. lol. It broke in a descent spot to where I should still be able to use it with a little creativity. Here is a pic so you all can see what I am starting with.

    [​IMG]

    I think I am going to go for a lock back. I could and probably should go with a simpler action for my first folder but I have always liked the lock back so I will just go for it. I am considering using the lower hole as a pivot. The top hole will be ground away for the lock. Worse case neither of the holes work where they are at and I have to grind away and drill a new hole in hardened steel. As for other materials to complete this knife, I bought all kinds of screws, pivots, etc for folders a while back so I should be good to go in that department. Scales, bolsters and the rest will be decided as I go. I will not be using any templates or patterns so other than the lockbacks that I have played with I am going in blind on this one...it should be lots of fun! If I get the action to work nice and smooth the more likely I will use nicer materials. Either way if this ends up being an actual knife it will be my new EDC that I can test, use and beat up and whether it ends up being a knife or not It should be a good learning experience.
    So this is what I'm up against. It probably will be a very slow moving project because I don't have much free time. I just have to start working on a knife because it has been a while.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2016
  2. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    Cool. Sounds like a fun project.
    Wouldn't you want to anneal the blade before starting on it?

    I too broke a blade at the line of the bolster pins. I was able to convert it to a through tang by shaping it to a stick tang and then adding a bolt on to the remains.

    Don't feel bad mate. I think most of us are in the same boat. ;-)


    Dan
     
  3. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Na. I should be able to open up the hole that is there if it is in a decent location. If I have to add a new hole I should be able to make it thru with a masonry bit and then true up the size. Worst case I was planning on a stick tang like you mentioned.
     
  4. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    I forgot to mention in the opening post that the blade is D2 and it is approx .125 thick.

    I decided to grab a scrap piece of laminate flooring and drill a hole in it to help hold it together while I am laying out the action. I drew a couple circles to help me visualize what I have to work with. I can already see that the blade shape will likely be changing but I'm not too concerned about that at the moment.

    [​IMG]

    It felt really good getting on the grinder even though it was only for a few minutes. I decided to shape the blade for the lock. I will square up the corners a bit later because I don't want to spend time on it until I verify the the arm will work with this shape.

    [​IMG]

    I guess my next step will be to come up with a design and cut out a locking arm. I will probably cut the piece of laminate so that it resembles a scale. I figure it will probably help me visualize the knife better. That's it for now. I'm hoping to get a bit more done tonight.
     
  5. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    I got a bit more done today. I had to change the shape of the pivot area so I had to go a bit smaller because there wasn't enough material in one area. I had it locking great in the open position but it was missing material when it was closed so the arm didn't push the blade closed the last little bit. It looked really dumb and wrong. It sucks that many times if you have to make a change in one area, it causes a chain reaction. I'm sure that if I wasn't trying to make a full tang blade into a folder it would be a little bit easier.

    Here are a couple pics of my progress.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    There is obviously still a lot of shaping and fitting to do but I don't want to take off too much material in the lock area until after heat treat. I still have to cut the excess material off of the locking arm but I think I should first remake a pair of temporary scales to make sure I will have a comfortable and descent looking handle. I already started on that and will hopefully post some more pics later. So far I am really enjoying making this thing but it is nowhere near done so we will see how it goes. Feel free to ask away if you have any questions. Thanks for putting up with my first attempt.
     
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  6. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Hey Myth. I just realized I should have started this thread in the build along section so feel free to move it if you would like. :beer:
     
  7. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    Keep posting. Learning stuff here.
     
  8. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    I got some more work done today and yesterday. I got rid of the original scale and made 2 new ones now that everything is starting to take shape. I trimmed up the locking arm and made the little end piece. There is still extra material but it is starting to look like the final folder. Here are a couple pics of the folder open and closed with all of the pieces shaped and the scale covering it. With it all pinned together and the blade open the handle actually feels comfortable. So far I am pretty happy with it. This is going to be a pretty big knife but I don't think it will be awkward....I hope.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I guess my next step will be to plan and cut out for the spring. The picture below shows the clearance for the spring in blue and the spring itself in red. Before I cut it out I will make sure I have a decent plan for 2 pins and hopefully a lanyard hole in the end piece.

    [​IMG]

    That's about it for tonight but I think the first thing I will do tomorrow is start looking at the materials I will be using for the handle and also decide on fastener and pivot components. I don't want to drill any holes until I have a final game plan on how I plan on assembling it. I have a small selection of folder parts I purchased a couple years ago. My scale and liner choices may determine how I plan on assembling it. Keep checking back. Hopefully I have more to show tomorrow.
     
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  9. krash-bang

    krash-bang Active Member

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    Looking good so far.
     
  10. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Thanks Krash. It's turning out to be a fun project.
     
  11. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    A little more done tonight. Clearance for the spring is cut and the spring is in. I still have final fitting to do but I won't be doing that until after heat treat and everything is on the actual liners. So right, other than the fit and not having proper scales and liners, I have working folder. I have some tapped holes I still have to put in and a little more prettying up to do and the bar and back piece are ready for heat treat. Here are a couple more pics.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Seeing the process sure makes you appreciate a completed folder.

    Seeing the complexity of the work involved I am surprised makers don't use transparent or translucent handle material to show off the mechanism.
     
  13. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Ya it does John and it also helps you realize how much fun they are to make. The mechanism is fun to make and fit.
     
  14. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    The last of the pieces are heat treated. I surface ground the blade and all of the pieces together to make sure they are all flat, parallel and same thickness so that when I started doing the final fitting I know everything is sitting on the liners with no gaps. I cut, shaped and drilled the liners and cut the finger grove for the locking bar. I think I will make the finger grove a little bit bigger to make it easier to press the bar. The knife opens, closes and locks nicely right now and I figure I am about 90% done the fitting. I will be making a few more adjustments to the shape of the blade and liners. Once I have the final shape done I will make the final adjustments to the locking bar so that it is at the same height in both the open and closed positions. I will also get started on the bolsters and scales. I'm getting closer and pretty excited about finishing this knife. Here are a few more progress pics.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. SoberEdge

    SoberEdge StonehurstKnives on Instagram

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    Nice work, looking forward to seeing the finished product!
     
  16. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Thanks Tyson. If all goes well I may even finish by the weekend...then on to painting the bedroom so I don't have to hear about it anymore. Lol
     
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  17. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    I'm working on it and little at a time. I attached scales to the liners and did some rough shaping. Next I'm going to set the height of the locking arm when it is in the closed position because I is about .025" high. Then I will reassemble and finish the scales. After that I should be able to finalize the bevels, and finish the blade. I also still have to reduce the thickness of the blade by about .008" with the surface grinder. It's getting there. Here is a pic of the parts layer out.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    Looking good man!
     
    Icho- likes this.
  19. Mythtaken

    Mythtaken Staff Member CKM Staff

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    I like the way it's coming along. Are you planning to use washers? When you tighten everything down you can get some binding at the pivot and lock bar -- even more so when the knife is smaller and the liners are thinner.
     
  20. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Thanks Tim. Yes. I have some that are .020" thick but I don't think I want to use those because I don't want to grind .040" off of the thickness of the blade so I will probably make 2 .005" washers so I only have .010 total to grind off. I hope to get out to the garage tonight so I can finish the bevels before I grind the thickness of the blade down tomorrow at work on the surface grinder.

    Here are a couple pics I snapped just before I left the house a few minutes ago. One of the scales fits. I have to grind pins and pivot down tothe correct length before both scales can be put on at the same time.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     

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