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Fillet Knife W I P

Discussion in 'Fixed Blades' started by dancom, May 5, 2019.

  1. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    I have been working on an 8" filleting knife.
    [​IMG]

    Chugging right along. The piece of wood decides to...
    [​IMG]
    So back to making a new handle.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2019
  2. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    New. Stabilized dyed blue curly maple.
    [​IMG]
    A little bit more fine paper finesse work and a cutting edge and she's ready for a sheath.
     
    Griff and John Noon like this.
  3. ToddR

    ToddR Putterer, Tinkerer, Waster of Time Staff Member

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    another work of art. Too bad about the wood Dan.
     
  4. Toby Schmid

    Toby Schmid New Member

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    Crying shame. Me being the cheap @ss that I am would have rounded the back edge on both sides to match the chip. But Mcgyvering something is never beautiful.
     
  5. Dave Hodson

    Dave Hodson Member

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    Looks good Dan - great work. A couple of questions if that's ok - I'm trying to learn so I know what to do when I do the same thing. Where the original scales stabilized? They obviously weren't blue so did you grind both scales off and change material?
     
  6. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    The original "Awwwww Snap!" scales were sold as stabilized cross-cut spalted maple. I got this block from a vendor in Russia. This set of scales were cut from quite deep in the middle of a larger block, so I'd call them "partially stabilized." I guess stabilized can be a vague term. I should have known. Spalted is weak and cross-cut is weak. In hindsight, the both of them together was asking for trouble.

    For deconstruction, I took the opportunity to learn something. Instead of attacking the scales with the grinder, I drove the pins out and used a heat gun to soften the epoxy and pried off the scales and then the fibre spacer material. Epoxy starts to soften around 80°C. The fibre spacers were tough to scrape off, even with the heat. I ended up cleaning all the extra holes in the tang with a drill and various sizes of bits. After a soak with some acetone and a wire brush, the tang was pretty clean. It wasn't easy to do, but it was reassuring knowing that my epoxy and construction techniques makes for handles that aren't going to fall apart anytime in the foreseeable future.

    I scuffed the tang with sandpaper before attaching the new scales. The blue maple ones are from WoodStabilzer.com in B.C.

    Dan
     
  7. Dave Hodson

    Dave Hodson Member

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    Good to know. I'm sure I'm going to get a chance to use it at some point. Lucky you had a chance to deal with it now rather than later from a buyer.

    As an aside, thanks for your help on the poor Man's Etcher. Here's a picture of the finished product. Now I just need to figure out times - I'm kind of boiling off my nail polish.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ffAz7JhZvL34jpi6

    God I hate this website for photos. Obviously I'm doing something wrong cause others are doing it. I use Google photos and share the photo but can't ever get the photo itself - always the link
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
  8. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    Ya, I just attempted to copy the image from Photos and it didn't work.

    What I do is create a draft blog post in Blogger and insert the photo there. Then select and copy the image. Come here and paste.

    Dan
     
  9. Dave Hodson

    Dave Hodson Member

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  10. Dave Hodson

    Dave Hodson Member

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  11. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    The share link in Photos (and many other image hosting sites) is to a web page and not the image itself. This is because there's often ads on this web pages. The image button here in the post editor is expecting an image. Like the .jpg or .png, not the HTML web page.

    Looks good by the way. My "method" is etch 10/wait 10, etch 10 wait 10, mark 10. After listening to radio station WWV for years, I am pretty good at counting in seconds so no timers required. ;)
     

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