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Distal Taper

Discussion in 'How I Made It: Tutorials' started by John Noon, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Good question came up and believe it or not I too this photo yesterday to show how I do it. Also to get feed back on better ways of accomplishing the same goal so post up how you do it here.

    Started off with grinding the profile on a heat treated fillet knife blade, starting with 0.10" AEB-L tapering down to 0.03" at the tip.
    As you can see to much pressure at the start of the grind and that will have to be fixed, need to change how I do this or start enjoying fixing the grind.

    Second layout marks on top of the spine
    1" from tip
    2" spacing from there to the thumb rise or just before the bolster.

    grinding follows a pattern starting at the 1" to the tip then 3" to the tip and so one until the last mark is reached.

    Repeat the grinding pattern on the other side of the knife alternating sides until you have the taper very close.
    At this point I remove the knife from the holder and flat grind on the platen to ensure the surface is nice and smooth.
    [​IMG]
     
    Grizz Axxemann likes this.
  2. Grizz Axxemann

    Grizz Axxemann Active Member

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    I gotta find me a video of this sort of thing...
     
  3. Brad

    Brad Active Member

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    Have you tried using a hard backing stick? You might want to ease up on the pressure a bit
     
  4. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Started using a backing stick part way through this one, before just fingers and that was not the best way. besides the occasion loss of finger prints I seemed to also put pressure with whatever hand was pulling the blade and it was not sitting flat against the platen.
    Tried free hand and that resulted in loss of skin on one knuckle and even at 100 grit the skin does not last long.
     
  5. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    I do the taper long ways on the flat platen or on the 4x36". The steel can be held with a magnet if there's nothing to hold on to.
    I bring the the tip to about 0.050" by working evenly on both sides from where the front of the bolster or where the neck is.
    Then I grind the primary bevels.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Constantly switching between the left and right sides.

    Might be tougher to do this on a 1"x30".

    Dan
     
  6. Brad

    Brad Active Member

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    Oh sorry I was confused now I get it. Dan and I do the same thing to grind in our tapers. I have a 2x72 with an 8" platten, if the blade is longer I just work the blade up and down.

    One of the things that was not working was the blade flexing. If that is a problem try running a coarser grit belt.
     

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