just finished a 0-1 bevel guide with dowels for guides, and the other is a nice block that locks the sand paper in good and tight. Both where ideas I found online.
Nice. I have been thinking about making a sanding block like that one. What did you use for the elastics to hold the rods down?
Ya its really handy to have, you'll like it. think the video I watched on youtube was a simple life film. these are big o rings
love that filing jig. I can't believe what they want for one of those online, from $100-$150. Uh...no thanks. I will have to find some chunks of 01 and make one as well.
I do like the one I seen online for 125 usd It had a carbide strip on each side but ya that's way too much money haha
I have been looking for a File jig but can't bring myself to spend $100-150 US on a lump of metal and a couple of Carbide strips. So I've been doing some research and found that Fastenal has 1/4 x 3/8 x 3" carbide strips for sale ($6.31 US). I'm going to order a few and make my own jigs, I think I will get ten. I don't have any machining capabilities in my shop so I may farm that out to someone local in Calgary (Does anyone close have that capability?). I can't imagine that this will cost much. Hopefully, I can have something made for under $40 CDN total. Thoughts? Here is the link to the carbide if anyone is interested. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0359323 Cheers.
Hi James. I can't help you with the filing jig question, sorry. I'm replying though because i'm curious if you plan to use these free hand or not. I have been toying with the idea of going "jig-less" for a while now. Are you planning on using it with a bevelling jig or freehand. Or, is this a silly question. Are filing jigs meant to be used only for free handers. I'd be a customer if you can make a carbide jig for near that price. Also, i'm a natural over thinker. It's why i worry about things like "do i use a filing jig with or without a bevelling jig" before i even own a filing jig, or know how to free hand grind : )
I use mine for lots of things. Filing the spine with the checkering file and making the hidden fangs true. Never used it for a bevel yet haha one day
I plan on using this guide in two ways. One to clean up and ensure that my plunge lines are accurate and consistent on each side of the knife. Secondly to make sure the shoulders on hidden tang knives are perfectly horizontal to the tang and are exactly at the same level. I do all freehand grinding now and don't think I will use a bevelling jig in the future. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a beveling Jig I just prefer to wing it a little, also I'm by no means making production knives or even knives to sell, so a little inconsistency in my grinds isn't a big deal. If I was cranking out the knives or needed to hit a repeatable level of grinding I would most likely use a jig. James.
Very nice work. I usually use a wooden sanding block for my hand sanding. How do you find the steel one? Skip
i've only tried one hidden tang knife so far. Just to see if i could do it. I couldn't. : ) I'm going to try again though but I'd like to get to freehand grinding first. Baby steps. Besides, i have a cool Sayber OSG to build and no time to build it. That'll keep me busy for months.
Todd, there are a number of great resources online (youtube) that instruct on the construction of a hidden tang knife. I don't feel that it's any more difficult than a full tang, just a different process. Here is a video that shows the final assembly of a wa handle, this is basically the process I follow . Once you have the tang and the shoulders created on your knife you are ready to create the handle. I normally create a 3 part handle, the ferrule, handle and internal dowel. This allows me to have only 4 moving parts as I do a glue up. Have a look at that video it may help to explain. Good luck with your grinder build. James.
Thanks James. Good video. For the record, i'm addicted to Youtube instructional videos so, nice pick. My biggest problem with hidden tang knives is getting the slot shaped properly. I can't quite seem to get the slot either straight or just narrow enough. It end up being a little wider than needed or crooked. If i can get that part licked, i think i'll be okay. I'm going to file this youtube video in my favorites for sure. Thanks again.
it's a bit of a pain in the butt to get the slot just right. I struggled quite a bit. Using the dowel helps since you don't have to create the slot all the way through the handle. Only the last 1/4 - 1/2 inch of the ferrule needs to be filled out. To help with this I ended up buying a set of Italian Needle rasps from Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30286&cat=1,42524 they are not cheap but they work really well and make much quicker and cleaner work of the tang slot.
It's great. Nice and flat,hard surface. And the bars lock the paper nice and tight this always me to use all three sides for sanding
