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Clay For Hamons

Discussion in 'Heat Treating' started by Joelsund, Oct 6, 2020.

  1. Joelsund

    Joelsund Active Member

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  2. Griff

    Griff Active Member

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    Hey, I’ve never heard of it before, but it obviously meets temperature ratings. The trick is having it adhere and set up on the blade before austenitizing. Get the smallest amount you can and try it out, all you can do! Use the mechanics wire trick to give it a frame to stick too *thumb up*

    Good vid from Neels.

     
  3. Joelsund

    Joelsund Active Member

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    Alright, thanks. I used the stuff when making my heat treating oven and tried using some of the left over on a knife. Most of it fell off after the third normalization cycle. Where it did stay on it didn’t seem to do anything. Was also 1084 so not the best for hamons anyway. I’ll pick up some more and give it a shot, and put it on after normalization with some wire.
     
  4. Griff

    Griff Active Member

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    Okay you dont have to waste clay on normalization.

    For example on the W2 blades I’m working on I will be following this cycle (and because I have it I will wrap the blades in HT tool wrap for normalization to keep them relatively clean):

    1650F 15mins cool to RT

    1500F 15mins cool to RT

    1350F 15mins cool to RT

    Now fully normalized

    Clean them up, wire wrap and clay. Let clay set up overnight.

    Austenizing temp 1475F for 15mins and quench in Parks 50.

    I may even do a Brine quench on one blade I am willing to take the chance on for a quick 1-2-3 and then into Parks 50!

    Temper will be 400F for 2hrs x 3
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2020
  5. Joelsund

    Joelsund Active Member

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    Ya I’ll give that a try. Have you experimented much with hamon results in 1095 vs W2 I’ve only ever done 3 in 1095 with really nice results. Have W2 that I was going to try in a few weeks. Give the brine a shot. I had it work really well. I did it quite concentrated with nacl, at 90C left it in there for the full duration with no cracks 3/32 steel.
     
  6. Toby Schmid

    Toby Schmid New Member

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    reading this thread with fascination! Never having done a hamon - I have a question: Do you guys put cordusal or some such on the "unclayed" portion?
     
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  7. Joelsund

    Joelsund Active Member

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    I don’t, since with 1095 and w2 you aren’t at super high temps and long soaks where that’s really needed. It would definitely help with scale though.
     
  8. Griff

    Griff Active Member

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    I would Toby if I had it for sure! Coat the blade completely with anti scale, let that cure/dry, then clay, leave 24hrs...but test clay adhesion to the coating prior to placing in the kiln.
     
  9. Toby Schmid

    Toby Schmid New Member

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    Well I did it. Unfortunately I had already clayed up the knife by the time I saw your post Griff so I only anti-scaled the exposed portion. Wish I had done the whole blade first. I thought the clay would act as ant-scale but I soon learned it doesn't. Had horrible scale under the clay and not a flake on the edge with the ATP. Word to the wise......
     
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