There are probably three placrs that this could have been posted, but Tutorials is about the best place I can think of. This is a step-by-step build-your-own-forge tutorial. Now, I'm not any fabrication genius, nor am I the be-all of tutorials. But hopefully I've got all the steps illustrated to show you how to go from a 20lb propane tank to a respectable vertical forge. I didn't illustrate some steps (like water-purging the tank) but hopefully that doesn't detract from the end result too much. Now, on to the show... Step 1: Purge the tank. You can accomplish this in two steps. First, hook the tank up to any LPG appliance (BBQ, Forge burner etc). Open the valve and the appliance and listen for any hissing. Then unscrew the valve on the top of the tank. Keep in mind that these things are on good and tight. I needed someone to hold the tank and a 4-foot snipe on the end of a crescent wrench to break the bugger loose. Don't chuck the valve just yet. Once you've gotten the valve out of the way you can purge the tank by filling it with water. Propane is heavier than air, but not water. I'm sure that there are other ways to purge a propane tank (I've heard of Argon for gas and diesel tanks) but we all have water at home and a couple of gallons doesn't cost you much. Then I marked a line around the tank for the lid to be cut off. In hindsight I should have cut a little further down the tank to make fitting the roof insulation easier. Whaddya gonna do? I screwed the valve back in to hold the water in and then fitted a 1/8" cutoff wheel to my angle grinder. With my brother acting as tank-spinner (and water-spray catcher) I laid into the tank and pruned the top off. Even managed to line up the cut all the way around...pretty nearly. Now we marked the front and back doors. And then used the grinder to cut them out. The tanks have an overlap in the middle where they appear to be press-fit and then welded. Makes as good a place as any to terminate the door, but it might have been just as well to cut below it to simplify the dressing of the edges. Next to fit is the inlet tube for the burner. What a jerk of a thing. Note to everyone: but a hold-saw, rather than try to cut out a circle with the angle grinder. Still, we got it in and with a bit of judicious filling with the welder, all's well. Now weld on a few tabs to locate the lid. I recommend bending them a hair prior to welding them on (and subsequently snapping your welds trying to bed them afterwards). Three was all the tabs I felt that I needed, lest my OCD cause me to spend an hour getting them spaced perfectly. Then I dressed the front and rear of the tank to accept the angle-iron brick door guide. I salvaged the angle-iron from the local dump (they were the extended forks on a pedal-bike-chopper). Could have stood to have the next size up but free is free and you shouldn't argue with free. Thankfully my kawool order arrived from Pottery Supply House a couple of days after I finished cutting and welding. I recommend finding someone closer to you to buy the kaowool from...PSH charged me $25 to ship 4 sq.ft. of wool! The woold didn't even cost that! Moving on...once the Old Man and I got the wool cut and fitted (easier than I thought it would be) we cemented it in using Imperial Hi-Temp Stove and Furnace Cement from Canadian Tire. This stuff is supposed to work as well as Satanite according to guys on other forums (I know...dreaded second-hand internet knowledge). I'll let you know. It's no amount of fun mixing it and workign all the little lumps out of it as it comes from the store rather dry. Once the cement had dried we heat-cured it with a heat gun for about an hour. By the end of that everything was good and toasty. Should be good to go. Here is the forge ready to fire for the first time. Thanks to Cal Ganshorn (forum member FORGE) for supplying the burner to the Old Man. Dandy birthday gift. Final photo... Hope this has helped other people considering their first forge project. Now off to fire it up and see what we can come up with. Thanks for looking.