Hi everyone I would like to know what you all would say are essential tools for the beginner on a budget but still wants to enjoy the build and not spend all day givener with a hacksaw and a file. Thanks would love to here what you all have to say
I copied this from my blog Tools Although the knifemaker's tool list will vary wildly depending on who you ask, I've compiled some basic tool list to help get you started. Fortunately, many of these are common in garages across the country. Work Bench - Table or other sturdy working space. Needs to be about the right height for working while standing. Vise - Must have. Something to hold your work down. You could get away with some clamps and vise grips, but a good vise will last forever and be one of the most useful things in your shop. Hacksaw - Any decent hacksaw with a quality blade will be good to get you started. Choose good quality bi-metal blades. Bi-metal means the teeth are different metal (and hardness) than the surrounding blade. Lennox, Starret, Milwaukee, DeWalt are all good brands. Files - At least two large mill files, bastard cut and one smooth cut. I prefer a fairly hefty one, say a 12". Nicholson brand is recognized as good. Handles are optional, but make working with files easier on the hands. Drill - You will need to drill steel and material for handles. A basic cordless drill is okay for a start, but ultimately a drill press produces the best results. Bits - A well stocked index of sharp bits suitable for drilling steel is a must. HSS bits are perfectly fine for drilling all kinds of annealed steel. Cobalt are better, but also more expensive. Hammer - You'll need at least one hammer. A 20 oz. ball pein is a handy choice to have around the shop. Centre Punch - Splurge for a centre punch. It will help keep those bits on target and make for a more professional looking knife. Wood Rasp - For shaping handle of wood or synthetics. Clamps - A few different sizes of clamps and vise-grips for squeezing during glue-ups. Ruler - Pick up a stainless steel ruler with inches and centimetres. You will find multiple uses for this in the years to come. Permanent Markers - These can be your best friends. Fine or Ultrafine tip. Black or whatever colour is on sale. Assorted Sandpaper - For shaping, smoothing and polishing, you'll need some wet/dry type sandpapers from 60 to 600 grit. Wood Blocks - Make yourself some hardwood blocks for holding sandpaper. Scraps of oak or maple that are cut nice and square are very useful, as are dowels of different diameters. IMHO, this is all you really need to get started. Give it a go. Many amazing knives are made with files and sandpaper. If you really like your new hobby: UPGRADES: Bench-top Belt Sander - 1"x30" or 4"x36" combination disc/belt sander. Even if you get a 2x72" belt grinder later, you'll still find uses for these little cousins. Drill Press - Doesn't have to be fancy. The table needs to be right angle to the bit. Band Saw - Metal cutting band saw. Portable band saws can be converted to sit on the workbench. For basic heat treating... There several ways to get the hardening done. A fairly easy and clean way is to use propane or MAPP gas. Fire Brick - A small starter forge can be made with two insulated fire bricks. You can also make a "soup can forge" to heat treat simple carbon steel, but the two brick forge is proven and super-simple to make. Google "two brick forge" or look on YouTube and you're off and running. Swirl Tip Torch - A Bernz-O-Matic swirl tip torch like the TS-8000 is good for the two brick forge. It's swirling flame action moves the heat. Avoid those "pencil tip" soldering torches as they focus the heat in a tiny spot. We want big heat. Look for the words "Swirl" and "MAPP compatible." LPG or MAPP Gas - A bottle and a bottle to spare is my rule. You cannot run out during a heat treat. The camping style propane bottles (not canisters) will work fine. The yellow bottles of MAPP gas is good if your forging something large, thick or longer than your forge is designed for. MAPP is hotter burning than propane. Vegetable Oil - You'll want at least two gallons of vegetable oil. Cheap oil is fine. Quench Tank - Your vegetable oil will need to be put into a metal container of some sort. Gloves - Protect your hands with all leather gloves. Avoid work gloves that have nylon over the knuckles as this can melt and cause a nasty burn. (first hand experience talking) Welding gloves are good. Magnet - Any old magnet will do. I use an old speaker magnet from a car stereo speaker. Tongs - You will need something to grip a red-hot blade with. Some have proper blacksmith's tongs. An old set of vise-grips works in a pinch. Oven - Any oven capable of heating around 200°C (400°F) and will hold the knife you intend on making. A toaster over works great for this as you can haul it out to the garage and you eliminate those odd smells from the kitchen. Oven Thermometer - If you don't trust the dial on your toaster oven, (who would?) an oven thermometer will give you a better idea of how hot your toaster oven is getting. Fire Extinguisher - Let's see...flame, hot steel and oil...hmmm...you better have one. PPE... Respirator - At bare minimum some decent N95 dust masks. Better to look into a half-mask respirator. Safety Glasses - Hopefully self explanatory. Gloves - See heat treating section. This list is always in flux. Please chime in if you have a favourite essential tool. Dan
cheap steel , 1084 a couple files, some 120 - 400 grit sandpaper a drill for handle holes , some epoxy send away for heat treat (Ridley CDN Knife ) ........that will get you started for sure actually handle holes are not even necessary to test your blades , I just did an ABS test , handle was masking tape, chop-then shave arm, cut-rope, bend to 90 degrees....... if you like (and you will be forever hooked) then progress with your tools one tool at a time , hope this helps don't go and spend a pile of money until your certain on your new hobby........have fun !!
Not much more to chime in, but a decent work light helps, and if you're thinking about getting a 2x72" grinder, a cheap effective started would be a grizzly. Just google grizzly tools and you'll find it on their website. I think mine was 800-900$ shipped to PEI. Calipers are also a handy tool to have for measuring.
I'll second @snailgixxer's comment. Light. All the tools in the world won't help if you can't see that big scratch on the blade. Light up your work area as if you're about to do surgery. Don't forget to protect your ears too. It's vital when using grinders, but even the hacksaw and files can produce enough decibels to give you a headache after a while.
I hear you. Oh wait, maybe I didn't hear anything. Must have been that Black Sabbath concert I went to when I was a lad.
this is some awesome info i made some more head way on getting my steel cut to a ruff shape Im thinning about getting the harbour freight 1x30 grinder its like 30$ in store across the like Ive seen some mixed reviews on it for knife making and was wondering if any of you have had experience with it?
I have a Mastercraft 1x30" with a disc sander on the side. I used it on my first half-dozen knives until my grinder was finished. They're okay, a little under powered, but work fine. You can get almost all the belts you'd ever want in the 1x30" size. And, you know I still use it lots especially for wood and leather. Never a bad investment. I am thinking that Harbor Freight's Central Machinery models are going to be similar to Mastercraft. Perhaps even made at the same factory. ;-) A 4x36" combination belt/disc is a useful tool as well. Dan