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Backyard Bowie...whitetail Antler Handle

Discussion in 'Fixed Blades' started by Shed Hunter, Feb 24, 2016.

  1. Shed Hunter

    Shed Hunter New Member

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  2. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Nice work and one thing I noticed on several knives I have seen is that the fit up between the riccaso and guard portion will often have a gap.

    For me if the handle was recessed so that there was no gap it would like nicer. This is one of those things that might also be solved with casting resins. You could make a tapered spacer, maybe even universal? So that the spacer is sanded to fit the antler.
     
  3. Mythtaken

    Mythtaken Staff Member CKM Staff

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    I agree with John. I like the look a lot but when I see that slight gap, I become more aware that it's two pieces put together. No matter how well the handle is attached, it gives the perception of being less solid. If the antler was ground flat, so the two joined seamlessly, it would all flow together. Or, as John suggests, create a spacer that can be adjusted to accommodate the shape of the antler.
     
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  4. PeterP

    PeterP Active Member

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    I also agree with john, casting a resin piece, or if you prefer, you can also cast aluminium if you want something more ridged.
    kinda like what I did with my first bowie.
    [​IMG]
    here is another thing I did with cast aluminium & antler
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Like the casting aluminum idea and I have actually collected up band saw droppings which are a mixture of stainless, carbon steel and brass that I was saving to cast in acrylic. Didn't have any particular project in mind just one of those things that sits on the shelf.
    Now I may have to scare up a piece of antler or bone and see what it looks like.
     
  6. PeterP

    PeterP Active Member

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    :beer: Cheers!
    Did you consider in getting a pressure pot for casting resin? if your going to use metal shavings they will most likely drop to the bottom before it has time to cure, unless you completely stuff your mold with it and cover it with resin. the pressure pot accelerates the process and makes the resin a lot harder and eliminates all air bubble so you are left with a crystal clear piece . My pressure pot is a simple painters pressure pot from princess auto. ( 75.00$ on sale) bring it up to 60 psi and leave it at that for the cure time.
     
  7. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Never considered that but you have a point. bet it would work for stabilizing wood as well, oh so many toys to buy.
    I did an experiment with acrylic resin and acrylic paint mixed in. thought maybe the resin would help reduce the paint drying cycle but nope it needs 350F or 21 days to cure.
     
  8. PeterP

    PeterP Active Member

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    Worked special effects for 10 years after the forces...back then it was still old school effects, all hands on, no digital crap.
     
  9. PeterP

    PeterP Active Member

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    yeah your best bet is to get the resin dye, and trust me this stuff will last you for years. I both about 4 years ago a tube of sample dye from smoothon and still have them. it take the amount of a pin head to dye about 8 oz of resin. and it cures as the same rate as the resin.
    Right now I'm dusting off all that stuff and going to try my hand at making kitchen knives with resin handles.
     
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  10. Shed Hunter

    Shed Hunter New Member

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    Shouldn't be an issue as the horn fairly easy to work with...the guard is a cut from another buck just where the antler meets the head of the deer. I was a little nervous fitting the blade through it and rushed things. I have to improve as suitable antlers are tough to come by! I like to keep the handle as original as I can without shaving anything if I can help it as most are for display around the camp or man cave. Im thinking I should maybe mount the blade a little higher?
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016

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