This one going out to a stateside relative for Christmas. It seems like I am going faster and faster this time of year. 3/32" 154CM, 12-1/2" OAL with a 7-1/2" blade. Featuring 416 stainless front bolster (made with Cal's awesome vanishing pin technique), stabilized golden Amboyna burl and a black G10 rear and a 3/16" Frank Jacobs mosaic. Thanks for looking! Dan
This is really nice piece of work! But I think it would look even better if you used stainless on the rear too...
Ya I had originally planned on front and rear in stainless, but trying to keep it under 250 grams was the goal.
Sure is nice not to see those bolster pins I have come up with a solution to get rid of pins that you can some times see. It involves center punching the pin,placing a small ball from a bearing on the center punch mark and then pressing the ball into the pin to mushroom it out. Then you have to grind down the bolster again to get rid of the ball indent. Make sure you wear safety glasses because the small ball will explode if pressed to hard.
I see, like flaring the pin (as if it was a tube). That would certainly expand send the force outwards and fill in the hole. Thanks man! Dan
Beautiful knife/work Dan. I never even thought about balance. How do you determine the balance in the beginning ? Is it all in the handle ? Where should the balance point be ?
I relied on some advice from my friend who is a long-time chef and culinary arts instructor. He likes the weight in the middle of the knife "some centre mass to hold on to." in his words. He also prefers a smooth transition to from the handle to the blade as he often holds the blade way ahead of the handle. I tried to get the balance point to be the front bolster. Of course there are many different opinions and personal tastes., but it never hurts to talk to people who use knives a lot. Dan
He would know I think. I guess determining the balance point would just come from experience or is there a trick ? When the knife is finished, its kind of hard to change it.
Nice Dan but I would agree with Roman , I'm not a bolster fan but if I were I think the stainless rear would have knocked it out of the park.....
Hey Dan, I was just checkin' out the templates on your blog and noticed the KN9, this looks to be a bit of a different profile though no? Looks amazing BTW...I want
Yes GD, you are correct, the KN9 was originally laid out for 1-1/2" stock. This version I morphed to fit on some 2" stock. I trace it out as 1-1/2" and then worked the curve of the blade down almost another 1/2", following the same basic arc. Actual blade depth is 1-7/8". Thanks for your comments! Dan
Do you do any distal tapering on these? I'm a total newbie (as per my post count) and am still trying to figure out the kitchen knife process
