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Aeb-l Heat Treat Issue

Discussion in 'Steel, Hardware, & Handle Material' started by Kevin MacPherson, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. Kevin MacPherson

    Kevin MacPherson Member

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    Did a preheat to 1560 and equalized. Brought it up to 1975 for 15 minutes and plate quenched....ran a file across the top and it is not as hard as it should be. Any ideas?
     
  2. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    It has to reach sub 600F within two minutes and below room temperature within 30 minutes based on 13C26 which is basically identical.

    I use a high flow nozzle for media blasting and two aluminum quench plates for a minute at least and as soon as I can handle the material which is less than two minutes I clamp between two pieces of angle iron and stick in the freezer.

    From the freezer it is beneficial to do a -112F cryo which is dry ice and acetone or alcohol then add a couple Kg of dry ice. No soak time is needed once the temperature is reached by I generally do this later in the day and just leave the blades over night and next morning start the temper cycles.
     
  3. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    I thought I posted a bunch of info here for AEB-L but it is currently hiding from me. In a pinch check this link and find out far more than you may want to know, lots of charts and graphs
    https://noonsknives.blogspot.ca/p/aeb-l.html
     
  4. Kevin MacPherson

    Kevin MacPherson Member

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    Thanks John,
    I used high velocity air on the plate quench. Cooled to room temp in under 2 minutes. Very fast. Unfortunately I did not have any dry ice. Went to two tempers for two hours. Good news is no warp however my 2000 degree foil did not survive.
     
  5. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    Foil should not be damaged in heat treating if so it is the low temperature foil and not recommended for stainless steel.
    Also foil is not reusable , the titanium in the foil is needed for bonding with oxygen and is consumed in one use.
    Extra piece of paper in the envelope might work for emergencies
     
  6. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    The dry ice is just to get a little extra out of the material but not mandatory.

    I ran into a couple blades that did not harden even on second try and found some references to using oil instead of air as a valid quenching method
     
  7. Kevin MacPherson

    Kevin MacPherson Member

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    Foil clearly stated that it was good for 2000 degrees however I did not double wrap. I used a small piece off of a Popsicle stick to consume oxygen. Pleased with what it looked like despite foil failure however still concerned with hardness. Think I'll do the second tempering tomorrow and finish as is. Normally work with 440C however like this steel for smaller knifes and want to make it work. Wonder if my oven is hotter than what it's showing. It's a model that was homemade from the guy that taught me to build knives.
     
  8. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    I have gotten into the habit of flexing the blade especially fillet knives and if they stay bent the heat treating failed. One that was softer than the rest was flexible but not in the 60Rhc range and ended up a bird & trout knife.

    Manufacturer says you can repeat the quenching once but you will loose some performance. If a third time is needed it is supposed to be possible to anneal and start over but generally I just chuck the blade.
     

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