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Drill press block #3

Discussion in 'Jigs & Holders' started by dancom, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    One of the things I find most useful is having a few blocks of wood handy at my drill press. The block of wood evolved into two blocks of wood screwed together, then three. So the third iteration is most logically called DRILL PRESS BLOCK #3. This is really basic stuff and the instructions are aimed at the novice, but I am sure that experts will also find this useful at their drill press.

    Here is how to make a block #3.



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    Here you see a 5x6" base with a 2x4 and a 2x2.

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    Cut the 2x4 and 2x2 to the short dimension of your base. In my example I cut them to 5 inches.

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    Press the 2x4 into the corner of the base and mark a line.

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    Measure 1-1/2" (38mm) and scribe a line for the 2x2 block.

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    This is the layout. Proof this before attaching.

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    On the base, mark some holes for screwing the blocks. I chose 3/4" from each end, on centre.

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    Drill the holes to 3/16".

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    Countersink the holes.

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    Align the blocks and screw them to the base from underneath.

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    This is the essential block.

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    Make a mark on the 2x4, 1" from the edge as shown.

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    Drill a 1" hole. I used a spade bit.

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    Make a 3/4" and 1/2" hole along the line with the spade bit.

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    Drill a 3/16" hole for hanging the block.

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    Sand to a happy ending.

    This thing will come in handy for knife work, drilling leather in sheaths and so much more.

    Let me know what uses you find for it.

    Cheers!

    Dan
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  2. dancom

    dancom Dust Maker Best Shop Tool

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    Maybe I will explain some of the many uses I've found.

    Firstly, I hate drilling holes in the drill press table and vise. So I always try to drill into something sacrificial.

    Drilling stitch holes in a sheath after the belt strap is attached on the backside. Because of the strap (or button), the sheath doesn't want to sit flat. If the strap fits between the blocks, you can drill with the leather surface at 90° to the drill bit.

    As small clamps and vise-grips can fit between the blocks, I often clamp bolster pieces and drill through the tang holes. If it's wood or G10, the firm backing of the block prevents tear-out. Same for drilling wooden scales (see image below). Clamp to the tang, drill right through into the wooden blocks.

    Using a Uni-bit often requires sizable depth to get to the diameter you want. The holes on the 2x4 side work well with Uni-bits. Same kind of thing for small sanding drums. They can go into the holes. Clamp the block to the table and you've got a mini table to keep your work flat against when the drum is whizzing around.

    There's got to be another half dozen uses that are escaping me right now, but I hope you get the idea. Okay it's not micrometer precision, but provides backing and saves drilling holes in the vise.

    Here you can see that block #2 on it's last legs.
    [​IMG]

    Dan
     

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